Martin Boysen

Martin Boysen, a former pupil of The Skinners' School in Tunbridge Wells, is one of Britain's most influential climbers, renowned for his pioneering spirit and elegant climbing style. Born in Germany and raised in Kent after World War II, Boysen discovered his passion for climbing on the sandstone outcrops of Sussex. His early talent quickly propelled him into the upper echelons of British climbing. In the 1960s, he made significant contributions to the development of North Wales climbing, including the discovery of Gogarth and first ascents of iconic routes such as Nexus, The Skull, and Capital Punishment. Boysen was also a key figure in major Himalayan expeditions, including the first ascent of the South Face of Annapurna in 1970 and the South West Face of Everest in 1975, both under the leadership of Sir Chris Bonington. His autobiography, Hanging On, offers a vivid account of British climbing’s golden age and his adventures with legendary figures like Joe Brown and Gary Hemming.

In addition to his climbing achievements, Martin Boysen has appeared in several notable mountaineering films and documentaries. His filmography includes Everest – The South West Face (1975), which chronicles the historic British ascent of Everest, and Trango (1978), documenting the first successful climb of Trango Tower in Pakistan. He also featured in Doctor Tom (1994), part of a series on Scottish mountaineering, and Ama Dablam (1979), a documentary from The American Sportsman series. Boysen even served as a climbing double for Clint Eastwood in The Eiger Sanction and worked on Fred Zinnemann’s final film, Five Days One Summer. His contributions to both climbing and climbing media have left a lasting legacy in the mountaineering world.